Posted on 14 Comments

Aikon Clone??? The Spedix ES 30 HV ESC


  1. The Spedix ES 30 HV
  2. Speedy Spedix
  3. Comparison to Racerstar V2
  4. Comparison to Aikon
  5. What Does BLHeli Think?
  6. Dshot
  7. Weight
  8. Small Modification
  9. Flight Test/Video
  10. Conclusion

Since my Racerstar 4 in 1 30A was unexpectedly ruined in a crash, I was on a quest to find replacement ESCs for the SK1/SK2 project that could handle up to a 6s battery. This time I opted not to get another 4 in 1 esc…


The Spedix ES 30 HV:

I am not sure what had pushed me into it (maybe it was the $12 price), but I ran across some Spedix ESCs at pirofliprc that I decided to take the plunge on. I couldn’t find any reviews or flight performance information on these ESCs other than a hand written note on my shipping invoice from Rich at pirofliprc: “Been flying these on 2700’s. They Rock!!”

Spedix ES 30 HV Features:

  • Blheli_S
  • Dshot ready
  • Can handle 3S-6S
  • EFM8BB21 MCU
  • Large MOSFETs
  • Heat sink
  • Enhanced filter circuit

Update: Unrelated to this purchase and no need for the details, but I want to show my appreciation for pirofliprc‘s customer support/service. They definitely went above and beyond my expectations.


Speedy Spedix

Just recently, the Spedix ESCs hit a new high. In combination with the Cobra 2207 2450kv motors, they were able to help the XLR project hit a new world speed record with an average speed of 195.99 mph (315.42 kmh) and a top speed of 202.11 mph (325.26 kmh).

The world’s fastest quadcopter uses the Spedix ES 30 HV ESCs


Comparison to Racerstar V2:

I decided to do some comparisons to the Racerstar V2 (Sunrise Cicada) 30A ESCs. Although they can’t handle more than a 4s, it was the closest ESC I had.

A side by side comparison shows the larger sized MOSFETs on the Spedix. Also, the Spedix has many more low ESR capacitors which, according to Spedix, is due to the filtering circuit being much more robust. I am also assuming that it is due to the fact that it can handle higher voltages.

I also noticed that the Spedix has a bus bar (long metal bar on the Spedix in the bottom pic) which helps to lower resistance.

MOSFET side: Racerstar V2 top, Spedix bottom (heat sink removed)
MCU/driver side: Racerstar V2 top, Spedix bottom


Comparison to Aikon:

These Spedix ESCs are extremely similar to the Aikon SEFM 30A 6S ESCs. Aikon’s claim to fame was that they were the first to introduce an ESC  with hardware generated PWM that made it capable of using Blheli_S.

Other than a few minor differences in the layout, these 2 ESCs are nearly identical. The main differences are:

  • Aikon ESC uses Infineon Technologies IRFH5300 MOSFETs
  • Spedix ESC uses Toshiba TPH1R4 MOSFETs
  • Aikon ESC uses 3 separate dedicated MP1907 gate drivers
  • Spedix ESC uses an FD6288 gate driver which is actually 3 gate drivers combined on one chip
MOSFET side: Aikon SEFM top, Spedix bottom (heat sink removed)
MCU/driver side: Aikon SEFM top, Spedix bottom


What Does Blheli Think?:

Once I soldered one of the Spedix ESCs to the SK2, I plugged it into the PC and ran the Blheli Suite to find out what it would see. After a warning about the ESC having an outdated 16.3 Blheli version, the Flash Assistant window popped up showing that the Spedix was flashed with the C-H-15 hex which is the same hex used on the Aikon. However, I also know that the C-H-25 hex is used for Aikon V2’s. The -15 is for the V1’s. I am not sure what the difference is between the two versions, so I went ahead and updated with the C-H-15 hex as suggested.

Blheli Suite Flash Assistant with C-H-15 hex selected
Default settings after flashing to 16.4



UPDATE: I just ordered a set of 20a Spedix ESC’s for one of my winter projects (Project C1) and noticed that the pirofliprc page says they are dshot ready. In fact, all of the Spedix ESC’s from piroflip are now dshot ready. I received my shipment today and the ESC’s do have the smoothing cap removed. As a side note, these 20a ESC’s are incredibly small!

With dshot on the horizon, which is a new digital ESC protocol, I found it nice to know that Betaflight testing is being carried out on the Spedix ESCs and that it is confirmed that the dshot600 is working on the Spedix HV 30A. Dshot is exciting because, since it is digital, it will be much more accurate and produce less jitter. It’s also interesting to note that you will no longer have to calibrate your ESCs. More information on this new protocol can be found here.

If you are brave enough and want to try out the Spedix ESCs on the Betaflight 3.1 Alphas, you will need to remove the smoothing capacitor on the signal input to the ESC. Smoothing caps are great for reducing analog noise, but not wanted for a digital signal. A video on how to remove the cap can be found here.

Also, be sure to see if your flight controller/ESC combination has been verified in testing – or be brave once again and be one of the testers. FC/ESC combo list can be found here.



Since I don’t own an Aikon ESC, I compared the weight to the Racerstar. As expected, the Spedix was a bit heavier than the Racerstar. Not only does the heat sink make it heavier, the Spedix board has many more (and in some cases larger) components. Also, the Spedix is a hair larger at 15mm x 29mm compared to 14mm x 28mm.

Note: Not the most accurate scale is being used; only 1g increments… good enough for milk and water though.


A bit of shrink wrap was added to the Racerstar measurement to account for the shrink wrap that was removed



Small Modification:

Since these ESCs will be sitting inside of the body on my quad, I decided to cut some of the shrink wrap off the heat sink to expose it directly to the air.

Modified Spedix shrink wrap


Flight Test/Video:

Making it short and sweet: No issues with these ESCs, smooth as butter, and work awesome with air mode since the min throttle setting can be set extremely low (lowest out of the ESCs I have owned so far). 



Although I’ve only had about 5 battery packs on these ESC’s, they feel just as smooth (if not smoother) than any other ESC I have flown. For the price and features, I highly recommend these ESC’s!

I now have a set of the Spedix ES 20 Lite ESC’s that will be thrown on the C1/C2 project. Once the weather cooperates (and project issues are addressed), I will put down my thoughts on those as well.

14 thoughts on “Aikon Clone??? The Spedix ES 30 HV ESC

  1. Hey, I’m looking to buy these ESCs myself, but can’t find any info online about them, beyond manufacturers and retailers blurbs. Do they support dshot-600 out of the box? I would guess so if they don’t have a filter cap installed, but I just wanted to be sure before I pull the trigger on them

    1. Yes, these are dshot 600 out of the box – no issues with mine. Race day quads has them in stock:
      There is a bit of info here on piroflip:

      1. Well, I bought them (from a local store here in nz), I’m looking forward to moving to all digital ESC protocol. Aldo got an sp racing f3 across while I was at it.

        I’m curious to see how they handle 5 or 6s. Keeping the amps below 30/40 burst could be a challenge. Maybe some low pitch toothpick props could help with that…

        BTW, I just found your blog today while searching for info on these escs, but I read through a bunch of your projects, and they’re really cool! I haven’t seen anyone else really pushing the aerodynamics of a 2xx size quad like you have. I will definitely be keeping a close eye on the blog in the future. You’ve inspired me to try for some high speed runs on my zmr250 some time now. Its nothing special, but rs2205-s 2300kv motors and 4s should definitely let it hoon, once I get rid of the bottleneck that is my wimpy current escs.

        Keep up the cool work man!

    2. Not too sure if you need to remap the motor outputs on the sp racing f3 for dshot. The sp racing evo has to be remapped. Not very difficult to do:

      APC has some new toothpick speed props called Speed 400s. I ordered a few pair of the 5x5s. I had to order directly through them since nobody seems to carry the “pushers”. Haven’t tried them yet – it’s soooo frustrating waiting on the weather to shape up around here!

      1. BTW, the “new” speed 400 props are very not new. Speed 400 refers to mabuchi 380 brushed motors we used to run in cheap, small electric planes. They spin super high rpm and required very thin props to use the power efficiently. Coincidentally, this puts the props in a good place for modern mini quad motors 🙂

        That said, I think the rotorkraft 5051s will be pretty crazy for high speed. I just wish they did a 2 blade version for all out rpm/speed, and less burned up lipos…

      2. That makes sense- probably the reason why I was also seeing “slow flyer”(?) next to the name. Old props, but new as far as applying them to multirotors. I agree with the racekrafts, you probably saw their latest 2 blade version – style is like their 5051, but they are only 5038 🙁

      3. Hello. I recently bought SPEDIX ES30 HV 30A 3-6S BLHELI_S.Why is the firmware different? You have CH-15.We checked it costs CH-25.Version 16.6 What is the difference? What should I stand for?

      4. What one is it flashed with when you bought it? This has been a problem. The blheli githhub page says CH-15 for Spedix and CH-25 for Aikon. They are basically the same ESC but different hex(???). I have seen both so I usually go by the one that it came flashed with. Blheli will say which one it has when you connect to the ESC.

  2. I got my escs today, and I’ll add a few notes for anyone considering buying them.

    They’re pretty thick compared to a lot of modern 20-25a quad escs. The heatsink, and beefy, low RDS-on FETs mean that on 3 or 4s, these things barely even warm up at a decently long burst at 32~ amps. In still air, with a 5ah 40c 3s. They have over-temp protection, settable in blheli suite.

    Mine came running blheli-s v16.6, and use the c-h-25 hex. The board looks identical to the one posted here, but I didn’t take off the heatsink, so I don’t know about the fet side.

    In terms of performance, one word, smooth. I haven’t run them hard yet, but my brief stint hovering and some LOS flight, the motors ran quieter, cooler, and had much more throttle resolution (this may just be the busybee micro and its greater resolution though, I haven’t had any other blheli-s escs) most noticeable was the ultra low speed torque, and much reduced cogging noise/motion.

    Over all, these seem great. I will update if they blow up in the future, but for now, I’m very optimistic based on the specs and build quality.


    1. Having tight builds, the thickness was a slight issue but I don’t have the heatsink on for the C5 build. Yes, these are great ESCs!

  3. what confg should i flash ch15 or ch25
    mine with ch15 16.7 official is having trottle value problem.what should i do now ?

    1. I will look into this. First make sure you are using dshot in Betaflight.

  4. I just checked the github wiki page for blheli. It says to use C-H-15 for the Spedix ES30HV. Maybe for some reason the motor outputs are no good for motors with throttle problems? If so you can try remapping.

    Github blheli wiki page:
    Motor remapping:

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