- The Spedix ES 30 HV
- Speedy Spedix
- Comparison to Racerstar V2
- Comparison to Aikon
- What Does BLHeli Think?
- Small Modification
- Flight Test/Video
Since my Racerstar 4 in 1 30A was unexpectedly ruined in a crash, I was on a quest to find replacement ESCs for the SK1/SK2 project that could handle up to a 6s battery. This time I opted not to get another 4 in 1 esc…
The Spedix ES 30 HV:
I am not sure what had pushed me into it (maybe it was the $12 price), but I ran across some Spedix ESCs at pirofliprc that I decided to take the plunge on. I couldn’t find any reviews or flight performance information on these ESCs other than a hand written note on my shipping invoice from Rich at pirofliprc: “Been flying these on 2700’s. They Rock!!”
Spedix ES 30 HV Features:
- Dshot ready
- Can handle 3S-6S
- EFM8BB21 MCU
- Large MOSFETs
- Heat sink
- Enhanced filter circuit
Update: Unrelated to this purchase and no need for the details, but I want to show my appreciation for pirofliprc‘s customer support/service. They definitely went above and beyond my expectations.
Just recently, the Spedix ESCs hit a new high. In combination with the Cobra 2207 2450kv motors, they were able to help the XLR project hit a new world speed record with an average speed of 195.99 mph (315.42 kmh) and a top speed of 202.11 mph (325.26 kmh).
Comparison to Racerstar V2:
I decided to do some comparisons to the Racerstar V2 (Sunrise Cicada) 30A ESCs. Although they can’t handle more than a 4s, it was the closest ESC I had.
A side by side comparison shows the larger sized MOSFETs on the Spedix. Also, the Spedix has many more low ESR capacitors which, according to Spedix, is due to the filtering circuit being much more robust. I am also assuming that it is due to the fact that it can handle higher voltages.
I also noticed that the Spedix has a bus bar (long metal bar on the Spedix in the bottom pic) which helps to lower resistance.
Comparison to Aikon:
These Spedix ESCs are extremely similar to the Aikon SEFM 30A 6S ESCs. Aikon’s claim to fame was that they were the first to introduce an ESC with hardware generated PWM that made it capable of using Blheli_S.
Other than a few minor differences in the layout, these 2 ESCs are nearly identical. The main differences are:
- Aikon ESC uses Infineon Technologies IRFH5300 MOSFETs
- Spedix ESC uses Toshiba TPH1R4 MOSFETs
- Aikon ESC uses 3 separate dedicated MP1907 gate drivers
- Spedix ESC uses an FD6288 gate driver which is actually 3 gate drivers combined on one chip
What Does Blheli Think?:
Once I soldered one of the Spedix ESCs to the SK2, I plugged it into the PC and ran the Blheli Suite to find out what it would see. After a warning about the ESC having an outdated 16.3 Blheli version, the Flash Assistant window popped up showing that the Spedix was flashed with the C-H-15 hex which is the same hex used on the Aikon. However, I also know that the C-H-25 hex is used for Aikon V2’s. The -15 is for the V1’s. I am not sure what the difference is between the two versions, so I went ahead and updated with the C-H-15 hex as suggested.
UPDATE: I just ordered a set of 20a Spedix ESC’s for one of my winter projects (Project C1) and noticed that the pirofliprc page says they are dshot ready. In fact, all of the Spedix ESC’s from piroflip are now dshot ready. I received my shipment today and the ESC’s do have the smoothing cap removed. As a side note, these 20a ESC’s are incredibly small!
With dshot on the horizon, which is a new digital ESC protocol, I found it nice to know that Betaflight testing is being carried out on the Spedix ESCs and that it is confirmed that the dshot600 is working on the Spedix HV 30A. Dshot is exciting because, since it is digital, it will be much more accurate and produce less jitter. It’s also interesting to note that you will no longer have to calibrate your ESCs. More information on this new protocol can be found here.
If you are brave enough and want to try out the Spedix ESCs on the Betaflight 3.1 Alphas, you will need to remove the smoothing capacitor on the signal input to the ESC. Smoothing caps are great for reducing analog noise, but not wanted for a digital signal. A video on how to remove the cap can be found here.
Also, be sure to see if your flight controller/ESC combination has been verified in testing – or be brave once again and be one of the testers. FC/ESC combo list can be found here.
Since I don’t own an Aikon ESC, I compared the weight to the Racerstar. As expected, the Spedix was a bit heavier than the Racerstar. Not only does the heat sink make it heavier, the Spedix board has many more (and in some cases larger) components. Also, the Spedix is a hair larger at 15mm x 29mm compared to 14mm x 28mm.
Note: Not the most accurate scale is being used; only 1g increments… good enough for milk and water though.
A bit of shrink wrap was added to the Racerstar measurement to account for the shrink wrap that was removed
Since these ESCs will be sitting inside of the body on my quad, I decided to cut some of the shrink wrap off the heat sink to expose it directly to the air.
Making it short and sweet: No issues with these ESCs, smooth as butter, and work awesome with air mode since the min throttle setting can be set extremely low (lowest out of the ESCs I have owned so far).
Although I’ve only had about 5 battery packs on these ESC’s, they feel just as smooth (if not smoother) than any other ESC I have flown. For the price and features, I highly recommend these ESC’s!
I now have a set of the Spedix ES 20 Lite ESC’s that will be thrown on the C1/C2 project. Once the weather cooperates (and project issues are addressed), I will put down my thoughts on those as well.